It’s getting cold in Bologna, and the signs of winter are evident. Chestnut roasters have set up their carts on the street corners, shop windows have changed from flowy dresses to heavy coats, and faces on the street are disappearing beneath layers of scarves and low hats. As a Californian, the blatant changing of seasons is a novelty that sets a tangible atmosphere, and has marked the passing of time more powerfully than any of my calendars. Walking through the Giardini Margherita, whe

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